NORTH SARDINIA. Emerald coves.

Ideal to conquer your fears of snorkeling

 

There are more coves in Sardinia than you can imagine some with rocks, with people, without people, with beach bar, without beach bar, some with hammocks to rent, with signs, without signs… but all of them have something in common: emerald color, the clearest water we have ever seen.

For this reason anyone who is afraid of water can quickly conquer their fears because you can see clearly to the bottom.

We went to four coves, everyone has its own personality, all of them with rocks and no amenities. We like to be at one with nature. No hammocks, no lifeguards, no parasols… a bit risky if you think about it, but imagine that sixty years ago all the beaches were like this and the families still enjoyed.

So if you like to take risks, here there are four emerald coves where you can fell like Robinson Crusoe.

Spinosa Cove.

For us it was the best cove, but it was the most crowded of all of them, although the access is very difficult and it hasn’t got any signs.

Calas en la costa Esmeralda
Panoramic view of Spinose Cove with Corcega in the background.

It is in St. Teresa de Gallura, in the Capo Testa area, when you arrive to the light house there is a restaurant called “Cala Spinosa sea lounge club” and this is the unique reference point that you’ll find, there are steps to go down to the restaurant and joined to the steps there is a descent which is very steep to Spinosa Cove.

It’s not recommended to go down in sandals or with young children, but we did it so it is possible!!

And it’s worth… it is a pretty cove with Córcega island in the background and a lot of rocks where the people sunbathe because there isn´t any sand.

Calas Spinosa con Córcega al fondo.
Near the Capo Testa lighthouse in Spinosa Cove

We found a small place with sand wich was shaded at 14:30 and we could have a lunch without the heat of August.

But the best was snorkeling; we snorkeled along time, from one cove to another, there are two small coves with a little bit of sand where we snorkeled nest to the rocks in a  natural swimming pool, we snorkeled in the direction of Corcega, we snorkeled everywhere… it was fantastic!

It’s true that some parts of the Med have more colorful fishes but in Sardinia what caught our eyes was the clear water and natural pools or the hidden coves or may be a rock form where you can jump into the water.

Brigantina Cove.

The Brigantina Cove is on the Maddalena archipelago. This archipelago has seven major islands and sixty two small islands and the only island that is inhabited here is called Maddalena (a little confusing, I know) there are two options to arrive to the Maddalena island, you can take a Ferry from Palau, Porto Rafael or Santa Teresa or you can rent a private boat or a cruise with the passengers to visit the islands from the sea.

If you decide, like us, to go by car, you could visit two islands: Maddalena and Caprera island because both of them are joined by a bridge and you can drive across, the rest of the islands are only accessible by sea.

We decide go to Caprera because we wanted to visit and uninhabited island, and looking on Google maps we could do it, there aren’t any signs. In this way we arrived to “Poggiu Resu” ruins and we took the track that takes you to the cave.

If takes twenty minutes walking and the way is very bad with a lot of stones but there is some vegetation and some areas with shade, the walking was worth it… we went with sandals but we recommended going with boots or trainers .-

In the middle of the way you begin to see the cove from a distance and you remember the film “Blue lagoon”, the way clown is a big adventure and wakes up our imagination and when you arrive all of you hopes are realized, it’s a paradise cove.

Cala en la isla de Caprera
Brigantina Cove.

There were about twenty people, and this was in the middle of August and you feel that you have you place in the world. We had lunch in the shade under the tree and after a minute or two we were into the water with a flippers and goggles.

But there are jellyfish, little and white jellyfishes that can sting but with a little fresh water the sting will get better.

On the positive side we could see schools of fish that from a big cloud and we enjoyed the nature in its pure form.

After we had lunch we returned to the car and went to the south of the island, there are a lot of small roads leading to the coves and in one of the roads we stopped and this time we didn’t have to walk far to go for a dip.

Cove of Ginepri

This cove was different to the other that we visited on the Emerald Coast, cove of Ginepri was well sign-posted and it has all the services such as: parking, hammocks, beach bar, toilets… however it wasn´t very crowded.

Cala dei Ginerpri en la costa Esmeralda
Ginepri’s panoramic Cove.

Then without looking for we found a stunning beach with all the amenities. You can find within five kilometers of Baja Sardinia is a steep road down to the paid parking, from here, you can go to a beautiful hidden cove with emerald water, which had a lot of seaweed (Posidonia) and for this reason there were a lot of fish on the edge of the shore.

Also there were many rock islands for the children to enjoy jumping into the water.

Although it can be dangerous, the water is absolutely clear and you can see perfectly to the bottom from the top of the rocks.

Nikky Beach is the name of the beach bar and although we had lunch under the pines on the beach, we saw the people eating elaborate plates of food so maybe next time we come here for dinner and we could eat whist watching the sun go down.

Porto Quadro

The beach of “Porto Quadro” is in Santa Teresa de Gallura in the direction of Palau, it’s well sign posted but to find it is better to go to “Punta Falcone” when you arrive there are two possibilities left or right.

On the right there’s a beach with all the amenities but we decide to go left because we saw a rock cove, without any amenities which was seduced with shade where we ate in total relaxation.

Poltu Cuatro
Porto Quadro in Santa Teresa de Gallura.
Calas preciosas en Cerdeña. Santa Teresa de Gallura
Panoramic of Porto Quadro.

The bottom of the cove was very rocky and we saw an octopus and decided to swim a long side it while the octopus played a game of cat and mouse in the rocks, this was a spectacular sight for our children whose eyes opened as big as plates beneath the diving goggles.

The water was so clear and shallow that we could give a long distance which is evident from the panoramic photo without a doubt Sardinia is a paradise for snorkel lovers, for the temperature, for the clarity of the water and its many coves. It was a dream come true to enjoy than Med in this way.

 

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